Monday, February 23, 2015

7. Day 3 (Aug 19) - Around Frankfurt: City Museum

(Note: In response to a sensible request, I am including the calendar date -- from 2014 -- that each day represents in the title to each posting.)

The City of Frankfurt has a city museum that can best be described as a collection of various things that don’t necessarily have to do with the city but, in some cases, were merely collected by people who lived in the city and the museum acquired the collection.  In some ways it is reminiscent of the Smithsonian Museum of American History about which the New York Times said upon the reopening of the revamped museum that it was a museum “where individual objects are so impressive, while the whole is so out of focus.”  The Frankfurt City Museum similarly lacks focus and while a few objects were fun, I wouldn’t say any were “so impressive.”  

As an example consider this crown, orb, and scepter.  
Replica Crown, Orb, and Scepter

These are not even original, but replicas of the German emperor’s insignia of office (as holder of the “Holy Roman Emperor” title).  And the out-of-focus sign in the background gives the provenance not only of the original insignia but of these copies.  Still, why here in Frankfurt and in the City of Frankfurt Museum?

What the information doesn't tell you, and you are simply expected to know, was that the election of the Holy Roman Emperor took place in Frankfurt starting in 885 until 1792.  The coronation of the Emperor took place starting in 1562 (it previously was in Aachen) again until 1792.  

Returning to the lack of focus theme, how about three suits of armor without much more explanation of them or what they are than the title?
Suits of Armor
There was also a display of about 20 metal masks from suits of armor, and several swords from a similar period.  And while these similar objects were all displayed next to each other, there still was not much explanation of what they were (shouldn’t we all know) or why they were here particularly.

And then, in the next room, was found this.  
Faience Collection
The fairly typical albeit large collection of faience is here merely because it is, as the wall sign indicates, “The Faience Collection of a Manufacturer.”  And if faience isn’t your thing, then maybe butterflies are.
Butterflies
Although the butterflies are mounted in different frames without any discussion of why each one was in a particular frame or even what kind of butterfly each one was.  

But the most interesting (to me at least) item in this museum actually had several connections to Frankfurt.  It is this gold renaissance goblet and it is an original.

Renaissance Gold Goblet
What is interesting about this item is not what it is.  Its title is: “Back in Town - a Renaissance Goblet Made in Frankfurt and Formerly in the Ullmann Collection.”  The goblet made by Hans Knorr, a master goldsmith in Frankfurt who was awarded the title in 1573 and was one of about 50 goldsmiths active in Frankfurt during that time.  But the last part of the title — Formerly in the Ullmann Collection — is expanded on in the description of the item.  We learn that the Ullmanns (Albert and Hedwig and their family) were important art collectors in Frankfurt but “Today the Ullmann Collection is scattered all over the world.  This came about because when the Nazis finally forced the Ullmanns to leave Germany, sometime after 1933, they had to pay the Reich emigration tax and similar fees which was especially onerous on property held by Jews.  Hedwig Ullmann had to sell much of her collection in order to pay the taxes and fees when leaving Germany.”  We further learn, “The small goblet was one of the few objects to remain with her and it accompanied her on the trip from Germany to Australia.”  She died in Australia in 1945.  The museum purchased the goblet in  2012, presumably from Hedwig’s heirs although we aren’t told.

And so ended our only full day in Frankfurt.  Tomorrow is a trip to the Jewish Museum and then to South Africa.




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