50. Days 15 and 17 (Aug 30 and Sep 1) – Hyena

Hyenas are not one of the big five game spotting animals (since they were not one of the most dangerous ones to hunt in the days of the origin of the big five); yet there are among the most difficult to spot, perhaps even rarer than the leopard.  

The hyena is a family of animals consisting of the brown hyena, the striped hyena, the spotted hyena, and the aardwolf, of which only the spotted hyena is found in South Africa.  It is the smallest carnivore family and the youngest – dating back only 10 million years.

Stereotypically hyenas are viewed as sneaky scavengers, often stealing prey from lions and other big carnivores.  The reality is quite the opposite – the spotted hyena is said to kill about 95% of the animals it eats and often has to protect its kill from a lion – and will do so quite aggressively despite the significant size disadvantage.  The hyena is able, unlike many carnivores, to eat and digest bone, horns, and teeth and it is the only carnivore that eats hides.  It more completely and efficiently utilizes its prey than any other carnivore.  Of course this is all information which I have read, not experienced.  

This photo is our first sighting of the hyena.

Hyena - First Sighting

Yup -- not a very good photo.  But you can notice several things.

1) It is already dark – the sun has set and we’re heading back to camp, using a spotlight to search for whatever might be out there.  And, true to its nocturnal aspect, the hyena is there.  It is about 6:30 in the evening (remember it’s winter).

2) Note the long neck, a characteristic of the hyena family

3) Note the spots.  This is how we can tell it’s a spotted hyena – well that and the fact that the spotted hyena is the only member of the hyena family generally found in South Africa.  

Two days later we’re again on our way back to camp but it is still light outside – it being about 45 minutes earlier.  And looking up the “road” we’re crossing what do we see but another hyena.  

Second Hyena - Up the Road

Again, not a very good photo.  Since we’re in twilight the light level is low and there are many artifacts in the photo as a result of this.  But we can clearly see this hyena and since it’s looking off to the side, we can see the characteristic long neck.

The next two photos (all of the photos from the one immediately above to the end of this post are in chronological order and were taken over a time span from about 5:54 to 6:03 pm and of the same hyena) show the hyena moving down the path.  So far it does not appear to be significantly concerned about us.

Hyena Approaching - 1

Hyena Approaching - 2

The hyena finally looks once more off the road, showing its long neck, and this time leaves the road, although I don’t know if that is because of us or because it has spotted something off the road.

Hyena Beginning to Move Off Road

About 3 minutes later we spot the hyena again, this time off in the brush.

Hyena - In the Brush

This picture shows most clearly the relationship between hyenas and dogs.

And this next photo, taken just after the above one, shows again the characteristic long neck.

Hyena - Long Neck

Several minutes later we again come on the hyena and the photo strongly resembles the one taken two days earlier, raising the question whether this was a different hyena or the same one spotted on two different days.

Hyena - Clearly Spotted

Next up: The rhinoceros.

Link to Full Resolution Photos

49. Day 16 (Aug 31) – Leopard

The next few posts will focus on animals that we only saw in Manyeleti and not in Botswana (although some are found there – just not seen by us).  These will be showing in order of the rarity of their sighting: leopard (one animal, one time), hyena (one animal each of two times), rhinoceros (multiple animals one time) and lion (multiple animals two times).  

It is generally said that of the big five game animals (cape buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion, rhino) the most rarely seen is the leopard.  I’m told that the hyena – not a member of the big five – is nearly equally rare.  (And remember that the big five is an artificial construct in photo safaris as discussed earlier; indeed it is arguably an artificial construct in any type of safari.)  Thus we were very fortunate that we got to see not only a leopard (please note the use of the singular) and several hyenas.  

Seeing only one leopard is not surprising.  The leopard is primarily a solitary animal, only getting together with another leopard for purposes of mating.  They are extremely fast, very strong, and very stealthy, often approaching silently to around 15 feet from its prey before attacking.  They are carnivores and eat anything from insects and small birds on up to fairly large animals.  However, they tend to avoid very large animals as prey.  That said, they are the only natural predator of the adult chimpanzee and gorilla although this prey can fight back and cause serious injury.

The strength of the leopard is very useful when it has killed an animal as it usually brings it up into a tree and will feed on it there, generally safe from other animals.  The mother will also bring her young up into a tree.  So, finding a leopard requires looking both around and up.  

All the above I know about leopards from reading, not from any direct experience.  On safari we saw one leopard, midway on our first morning game drive, as it walked through the brush and across the “road” in front of our stopped vehicle.  In many ways this was atypical for a leopard sighting.  In fact, the only typical part of this sighting was that only one leopard was involved.  The leopard walked through the field and across the road right in front of our vehicle (which was stopped and waiting as we had been positioned and alerted by another driver who had first spotted the leopard and spoke by radio with our driver.  Normally leopards are skittish and avoid walking up to humans.  The leopard was on the ground at a fairly late time (7:45 am) for this mainly nocturnal cat and not up in a tree either sleeping or eating.

There are 7 photos of the leopard in this posting (edited down from a much larger number as my camera was clicking more or less continuously from when we first saw it until the leopard disappeared).  I found the leopard probably the most beautiful and elegant animal we saw in Africa.  In the first picture the leopard is just coming into sight, and you can see how perfectly its coloring camouflages it.

Leopard Just Sighted

The next series of shots show the animal walking through the brush, actually approaching us (but not tracking us).

Leopard Approaching - 1

Leopard Approaching - 2

Leopard Approaching - 3

As the leopard approaches a track in the brush, we can see it more clearly.

Leopard at Track in the Brush

For a sense of how close the leopard came to us, in the photo below the shadow in the bottom left corner of the picture is of our vehicle.

How Close Leopard Was to Our Vehicle

All too soon the leopard starts walking away from us.

Leopard Leaving Us

Next up: Hyenas.

Link to Full Resolution Photos

48. Days 15-18 (Aug 30-Sep 2) – Manyeleti: General Countryside

(Note: I have a number of shots taken of the vegetation and geography around Manyeleti without any animals.  By far we saw much more non-animal countryside as we went on the game drives and there were in many cases just as wonderful as the encounter with animals.  There’s not much to say about these photos individually so I am presenting them in the next three posts often with little commentary.  The subjects are (1) water, (2) trees, and (3) general countryside.  The same will be true, for the most part of the photos of animals which will follow.)

I’ve mentioned that more often than not on the game drives, we were seeing the countryside, not animals.  And while we were supposed to be keeping a sharp eye out for animals (and avoiding getting injured by a sharp eye), there was still plenty of opportunity to appreciate the countryside – especially since we had a driver and a spotter also watching for animals – and they were much better at it than I am.

So, what better way to appreciate the countryside than to capture it digitally, and then share it with all of you.

One of the things our tour leader tried to tell us when we were coming into Manyeleti was how to notice hidden game and how to keep scanning.  But just imagine trying to find a lion in the following.  Fortunately we had our driver and spotter, so we did get a rich game sighting experience.  And I quickly learned to appreciate the countryside for what it was – a beautiful sight rather than a place hiding animals.

Manyeleti Countryside

Some areas had little vegetation and thus little spots for animals to hide – but not much to attract them either.

Barren Countryside

The area below is a dry river bed – at least dry in the dry winter season.  We’re going across a bridge here in our vehicle, although the bridge is really more of a ford across the river along a drop from higher to lower elevation.  I think that means that even in the rainy season the river is fordable at this point.

Bridge/Ford on Dry River Bed

I really love this shot where the white bark of some of the trees make the entire landscape seem almost ghost like.

Ghost-Like Landscape

One of the import denizens of Manyeleti, and indeed of most African game area, is a little seen insect that leaves large reminders of its presence – the termite.  The termite is very important in several different ways.  First, it feeds upon brush and thus reduces the amount of brush available for large fires.  And termites are reputed to be a good source of protein (but I cannot speak to this from personal experience).  You do find termite mounds which are evidence of the termites’ presence.  This particular picture was shot from a moving vehicle and is the only termite mound I have from Manyeleti so please excuse the lack of sharpness.

Manyeleti Termite Mound

And, if you’ll excuse some geographic inaccuracy, here is another termite mound taken a few days later on the trip, this time in the Chobe National Park of Botswana.

Bostwana (Chobe Park) Termite Mound

As I’ve mentioned, as sundown approached on our game drives, we would take a break and have what are known as sundowners, although we’re probably stretching the British term a bit here.  The Brits refer to sundowner as a drink taken at the end of a work day.  And that was not true here for two reasons.  One was that it is really hard to classify what we were doing as work.  And two, if you did consider this work, we still had about ½ of the ride ahead of us.  Still, we did make sure to indulge in this custom whenever we were given the opportunity.

I'll Drink to That

And, since sundown did come soon after we had our sundowners, let’s look at sundown at Manyeleti.

Sundown at Manyeleti - 1

Sundown at Manyeleti - 2

Sundown at Manyeleti - 3

Sundown at Manyeleti - 4

And, as the sun was completely below the horizon, what should make its appearance in the sky but the moon.

Moon Over Manyeleti

Next up: One of the big five.
Link to Full Resolution Photos

47. Days 15-18 (Aug 30-Sep 2) – Manyeleti: Trees

(Note: I have a number of shots taken of the vegetation and geography around Manyeleti without any animals.  By far we saw much more non-animal countryside as we went on the game drives and there were in many cases just as wonderful as the encounter with animals.  There’s not much to say about these photos individually so I am presenting them in the next three posts with relatively little commentary.  The subjects are (1) water, (2) trees, and (3) general countryside.  The same will be true, for the most part of the photos of animals which will follow.)

Deciduous trees in winter in the South African bush country are typical of deciduous trees elsewhere – no leaves.  The view of these trees is particularly wonderful.

Deciduous Trees - 1

Deciduous Tree - 2

Deciduous Tree - 3

Deciduous Tree Closer Up

Notice the birds in this photo (about 2/3 of the way across the picture to the right and in the middle of the sky.

Birds with Deciduous Trees

Tree with Mysterious Tufts

And before you ask, I’m not sure what those tufts of what look like grass are up in this tree.  I didn’t ask when I had the chance so it’s going to be forever a mystery to me, unless one of you has the answer.  

I also took closeup photos of trees and these follow.

I like the empty seed pods in this tree (at least I’m guessing that this is what they are).

Tree and Seed Pods

Another form of seed pod, reminiscent of vanilla pods (although clearly not).

Vanilla-Like Pods

Notice the rough, dried bark on these branches.

Rough Dried Bark

Many of the trees grow quite twisty.

Twisty Tree

Notice the very full spider house (too much to call it a web) on this tree.

Tree with Spider "House"

And give the lack of any bark at the lower levels of this tree (thanks probably to elephants), I don’t think it remains alive.

Probably Dead Tree

Some of the trees have quite dangerous thorns.

Tree Thorns

A close up of the dangerous thorn.

Tree Thorn Closeup

And the remains of what once was a tree.

Tree-RIP

Next up: General countryside of Manyeleti

Link to Full Resolution Photos

46. Days 15-18 (Aug 30-Sep 2) – Manyeleti: Water

(Thank you to Kimberlie Rawlings who commented on the game drive video of a bird posted previously.  She notes that the bird is a spotted wood dove (nice to have experts) which is quite nice even if not special.  As a she notes, birds are a vice nice part of game drives, especially if the bigger animals seems to be hiding.  How true.)

(Note: I have a number of shots taken of the vegetation and geography around Manyeleti without any animals.  By far we saw much more non-animal countryside as we went on the game drives and they were in many cases just as wonderful as the encounter with animals.  There’s not much to say about these photos individually so I am presenting them in the next three posts often with little commentary.  The subjects are (1) water, (2) trees, and (3) general countryside.)

We found little water around Manyeleti.  It is a drier area generally than the surrounding reserves.  That makes sense if we know it to be the area that was allotted to blacks for visiting under the apartheid government.  In addition, as I’ve noted, we visited in winter, which is the dry season.  Nonetheless we did come across some water.  The photos in this post were taken over three days.  Not included are water pictures from Botswana (where we were on the Zambezi River, or from Zimbabwe (where the Zambezi river tumbles over cliffs in the spectacular sight known as Mosi-oa-Tunya (“The Smoke that Thunders”) or as we Europeans and Americans call it, Victoria Falls.  Don’t worry – we’ll have plenty for photos of both of these as well.

Also not included in these photos are photos taken with animals around or in the water.  Some of the most diverse group photos of animals were taken around water, and these will also be separately presented.

Most of the water is relatively shallow and extensive over treeless or nearly treeless areas.

Other areas of water were even shallower and thus muddier.

And some were just drying up that used to be muddier.

Next up: Trees

Link to Full Resolution Photos